CHIReview
Included In
Cabra has everything going for it. Trendy neighborhood, fantastic rooftop patio, the same chef from Girl & the Goat - this restaurant could sell small plates out of a dumpster and still be booked six months out. It’s like that classmate in high school who was somehow friendly, attractive, and got a 34 on their ACT. If you always found that classmate’s charmed life slightly irritating, you might find the hype surrounding Cabra a little annoying, too. But the hype is warranted: this is a fun spot with undeniably delicious food, and the sooner you decide to take a trip through the hype machine, the sooner you’ll be having a great meal.
This restaurant is beautiful and, like any child of Beyonce and Jay Z, destined to be popular and successful from the moment it arrived on this earth. The only unappealing thing about Cabra is that it’s filled with trend-seeking tourists staying at The Hoxton hotel. But as soon as you start eating the food, you completely forget that someone’s Away luggage rolled over your foot on the elevator ride up here.
If you’ve been to any of the “Goat” restaurants, you know the food can be pretty heavy. The ceviches and tiraditos on Cabra’s Peruvian-inspired menu make eating here feel lighter, but still across-the-board flavorful. A tiradito of raw tuna tastes complex thanks to a serrano cilantro sauce. Gooseberries and toasted quinoa sit on top of the duck ceviche, giving it texture and sweetness. Most of the non-seafood dishes manage to feel light, too, including the tender beef heart skewer with a tasty huacatay, a minty and bright cream sauce. All the small plates fit seamlessly into the breezy, summery atmosphere, the same way your old classmate always managed to wear the perfect thing to Picture Day. The fried pork shank (chicharron del puerco) is heavier than everything else, but it’s one of the best pork dishes we’ve ever had, and worth a case of the meat sweats.
While Cabra is certainly likable, it isn’t perfect, and there’s plenty to be justifiably annoyed by. Unless you’re sitting in the outdoor section, this place is extremely loud. If you’re dining anywhere near the bar, you can count on it feeling who-the-hell-is-standing-right-behind-me crowded. And like a lot of small-plates restaurants, it’s impossible to gauge how much to order so everyone gets enough to eat, and the bill can easily get out of hand. (Something we’re sure Blue Ivy never needs to worry about.)
Whenever the Girl & the Goat team opens a new restaurant, it runs the risk of becoming primarily a tourist lightning rod. Cabra could get away with just being flashy and mediocre - after all, it’s got a former Top Chef winner behind the scenes and a prime location in an upscale, trendy hotel. But instead, this restaurant chooses to deliver on flavorful and interesting food. So you might as well get on board, reserve a seat on the patio, and scroll through that too-perfect classmate’s Facebook posts while waiting for your table.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Classic Ceviche
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Duck Ceviche
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Tuna Tiradito
Aji Verde & Queso Fresco Dip
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Salmon Huancaina Dip
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Chicharron Del Puerco
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Beef Heart Anticucho
photo credit: Sandy Noto