CHIReview
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Apolonia
Included In
“Buts”—every restaurant has them. “The food is good, but I could definitely still eat a cheeseburger.” “This used to be my favorite place, but then I ran into my ex-wife here.” At its peak, Apolonia in South Loop is an exciting place to share fantastic European-inspired food. But, you have to come at the right time.
On a busy evening, Apolonia feels like a work party you actually want to be at, and happens to be hosted in a museum atrium. You can find couples drinking wine, friends who saw the black truffle puff bread on social media, and lanyard-wearing out-of-towners discussing the riveting Accounting Association Summit happening at McCormick Place nearby. You know all this because you can hear everything—there’s barely any soundproofing in the minimalist, stone-floored room. And as long as you’re not actively eavesdropping, the chatter blurs into a pleasant hum.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
But the party doesn’t happen every night. When Apolonia is slow, silence becomes your unwelcome dinner guest. There’s a sense of discomfort as you try to avoid causing a ruckus—talking loudly, squeakily adjusting your chair, or triggering “Baby Got Back” to echo through the space after some errant Instagram scrolling. Throw in the eerie Orwellian omnipresence of the looming barren walls and this place starts to feel sterile and isolating.
Unsettlingly silent or not, you can always find solace in the great food. From the garlicky puff bread to plump mussels on crusty toast with a spicy calabrian butter sauce, the small plates are the highlight of the Mediterranean menu. We also love the handmade pastas, particularly the fiorentini al sugo. The tender pasta and pork sausage are bathed in a smoky tomato sauce, and topped with spicy chili oil. It's so comforting that even on a slow night, you won't care that Big Brother might be watching.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
But while the shareables and pasta are consistently delicious, entrees and desserts occasionally fumble. A salty polenta accompanies the bland chicken saltimbocca, and the creme citron has the repetitiveness of a CSI marathon. The citrus curd, ice cream, and marmalade all have the same sweet and tart flavors, which become boring and predictable after a few bites.
Apolonia is a restaurant that sources its power from the energy of people. And with a little foresight and planning, you can experience this spot at its best. Come on a weekend, or check the McCormick Place calendar before making a reservation. That way you can ensure that there will be a crowd—there’s no better way to appreciate Apolonia's mussel toast and pasta than with a few friends, some wine, and a room full of financial experts enjoying the perks of having an expense account.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Yellowtail Crudo
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Black Truffle Puff Bread
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Roasted Mussel Toast
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Toothpick Lamb
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Fiorentini al Sugo
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Roasted Duck Breast
Chicken Saltimbocca
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Egg Custard Tart
Crème Citron