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Cocina al Fondo isn’t a capital-F fancy spot, but its lively and energetic dining room and big backyard patio make it a great place to celebrate something special. Order a lot, and work through it slowly. Start with a cocktail like the mezcal-based La Maja with orange liqueur, pickled chili, and a splash of red wine before lingering over things like corn arepas topped with cheese and cherry tomatoes, and a perfect plate of roasted eggplant with minced lamb and dates.