Dizengoff

A Center City business lunch usually means eating a below-average caesar salad and someone telling you what they do for a living as if they’ll spontaneously combust if they don’t blurt it out. These meals can be pretty boring, but the juicy lamb over turmeric rice at Dizengoff isn’t. Rely on this revamped Israeli spot on Sansom, which was formerly a fast-casual hummus platter kind of place, when you want something coworker-appropriate and a little splurgy—even if the restaurant can’t keep the same momentum at night.

The menu mixes together hits from the Zahav Cinematic Universe, like silky hummus, sandwiches on fluffy, house-baked pita, and za'atar making cameos in everything from charred chicken to chuggable zero-proof drinks. You could eat half of the Dizengoff lunch menu and still feel pretty light, and all of it will be more memorable than that Rittenhouse seasonal American meal that tastes like it came from a cruiseliner buffet.

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

At nighttime, though, the energy at Dizengoff doesn’t rev up enough to feel exciting. Even though the color-splashed room is usually busy with people celebrating birthdays, only two out of eight diners will feel inspired to clap when a tehina-date ice cream sandwich comes out topped with a candle. People are drinking, but they’re talking about taxes while sipping bright pink cocktails. Dizengoff may serve a la carte versions of the slow-roasted and grilled stuff from Zahav and Laser Wolf—like lamb neck with syrupy grape molasses and smoked cabbage that’s surprisingly tender after its time in the flames—but it's missing the distinct identity those two restaurants have cultivated. Nothing lingers with you after you leave dinner at Dizengoff. It’s not quite a party, and it’s not quite a special occasion spot, either. Which means dinner isn't worth the hassle of reservation hunting, especially because the starters are consistently better than the mains.

So stick to lunch, when Dizengoff thrives on dips, salads, and frozen lemonanas in daylight, and people seem energized not to be eating in a gray cubicle. Dizengoff takes all the stress out of big-deal work meals, particularly if you're planning for groups or vegetarians or groups of vegetarians. It might even convince your boss that the team is more productive after sipping on chai soda and passing around spiced fries.

Food Rundown

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Chai Soda

There are good cocktails here and natural Mediterranean wines, but don’t miss the zero-proof drinks. The chai soda is sudsy and has a balanced blend of ginger and vanilla. You’ll never be able to see the word “chai” at a cafe without thinking of this drink.

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Hummus Tehina

Say hello to the manufacturer-setting hummus that exists at Zahav, Laser Wolf, Goldie, and even Whole Foods. It’s in demand for a reason. Expect to scrape up every particle of this velvety smooth hummus with your pita.

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Turkish Hummus

When you want a more savory hummus, go with the only hot version on the menu. It’s topped with brown butter, crispy garlic flakes, and smoky urfa pepper. This won’t take over your every waking thought, but it’s an OK starter to jazz up the table (which will otherwise be made up of 98% cold dishes).

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Boreeka

This is the best starter here and also the most intricate. The runny egg is wrapped in flaky Tunisian pastry. Once you crack it, the bowl fills with yoke like lava, and you’ll need to mix it with the cubes of raw tuna. There’s a spoonful of harissa, so the dish has some kick, along with some crispiness from the broken pastry.

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Za'atar Roasted Chicken

We’ve eaten this chicken when it was way too salty. But if you catch it on a good day, you'll want to eat this dish for tomorrow's breakfast, even if you intended to save the leftovers for lunchtime. Arugula salad, sumac onions, and toasted garlic all bring out the smokiness of the bird.

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Whole Fried Dorade

Dizengoff breads their dorade like falafel, which gives it some crispness along with an herby taste. Although it’s fried, it stays juicy inside. Everything on the plate, from the pickled cabbage to the tangy amba sauce and chickpeas, works. Like most things here, it’ll will leave you full without making you feel heavy.

photo credit: Michael Persico

Chicken Schnitzel

While it may be properly thin, this bland chicken cutlet relies on the tehina and spicy schug sauce to do all of the work. You can steer clear.