MIAReview
La Cumbancha
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There’s a first time for everything, and La Cumbancha marks the only time we’ve been roped into a conga line at a restaurant. This Cuban spot in Miami Lakes is a party—which makes sense since there’s some cross-ownership with Cafe La Trova. There’s also dancing, flaming steaks, and a live band playing salsa and bachata. To drink and possibly get abducted into a conga line is why you’re coming here. The cocktails are excellent and they do tableside martinis from a rattan bar cart. The big menu includes croquetas, pizza, “espagueti” ala carbonara, and more dishes that make no sense for most Cuban restaurants. But La Cumbancha is a Cuban-American concept, celebrating ‘70s Miami with its menu (and a “Que Pasa USA” piano by the entrance). The food is OK, but La Cumbancha’s strength is how it can get your Miami Lakes tía to dance circles around you after two hip surgeries. She’ll probably lose her voice here, but it’s worth it.