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There’s no shortage of Indian restaurants in Chicago serving butter chicken. Some involve dosas. Fewer involve idlis. But none are dedicated to the food of Kerala, a southwestern state of India.
Except Thattu.
This spot has had a few iterations over the years, serving Keralite comfort food from food halls, pop-ups, and now from a casual restaurant in Avondale. And comfort is exactly what you’ll feel here, as much from the laid-back atmosphere as from the food that’s near impossible to find in Chicago.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
photo credit: Vinod Kalathil
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Unlike most restaurants that seem plucked from the latest issue of Industrial-chic Digest, Thattu radiates warmth. Yes, there are high ceilings and exposed pipes. It even succumbs to the basket light trend plaguing restaurants across the city. But it’s a neighborhood spot that feels like it’s full of neighborhood people, partly because of the way the owner (half of a husband-and-wife team that runs the place) treats everyone like the nice kid who shovels their driveway. There are tangible personal touches too, like photos of handwritten recipes from the chef’s mother-in-law, a reminder that you’re settling in for a meal reminiscent of homestyle cooking.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Those recipes translate to delicious food. Seafood, coconut, and spices like turmeric and black pepper feature heavily in the best things here, like spicy pan-fried mussels that are the perfect pre-dinner cocktail snack. Or the fish steamed in a banana leaf, which you unwrap at the table like a peppery present. You’ll probably end up trying a majority of the short menu in one visit—unless you decide to make an entire meal out of five orders of masala-dusted tater tots.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
But, much like your wifi when you’re about to join a client Zoom call, the food at Thattu can be frustratingly inconsistent. Depending on the day, those excellent mussels might backhand (versus gently fist bump) you with saltiness. Or a haphazardly plated, overcooked pork chop may show up at the same time as dessert. The timing might be your own fault since you place your order via QR code, and dishes come out of the kitchen as soon as they’re ready. But if you can’t be trusted to realize that no, the order for the entrées should not be placed at the same time as dessert, friendly servers will help you time out your meal.
Thattu is refreshing because it’s different (and not just because of the quirky ordering system). You won’t see the predominantly-Northern dishes from your go-to neighborhood spot on the menu here. You won’t miss them, either.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Kappa Bonda
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Kerala Fried Chicken Sandwich
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Kadala Curry And Appam
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Meen Pollichathu
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Pork Chop Peralan
photo credit: Veda Kilaru